The 5.10 Galileo with Onyx rubber is one of 5.10’s next generation of shoes. Over the past few months I’ve been putting a pair through their paces…here’s what I thought.
The uppers are made from synthetic lined Cowdura, which is great for the conscious of vegetarian and vegan climbers. Synthetic Cowdura is roughly the equivalent to suede but it isn’t meant to stretch. After a couple of months of use I can confidently say that my Galileo’s haven’t stretched, although they have moulded quite precisely to the shape of my foot with the tops of my toes neatly slotting into the knuckle like indents.
The tongue of the shoe is split down the middle and padded. The central split makes it nice and easy to get the shoe on and the padding is comfortable enough if position correctly. However, rush when you are putting them on, and it’s easy to not position the tongue optimally and consequently get a pressure point on the top of your foot.
Compared to the 5.10 Anasazi Velcro the Galileo has noticeable more lateral stiffness. So, if you are after a super sensitive shoe this will detract from the Galileo but if you are after a precise fitting shoe that’ll exert maximum power on small edges…
The best bit I’ve saved to last. The Galileo rubber is the new Onyx rubber and I am reliably told that its “18% sticker and 50% more durable” than Stealth C4 rubber. Charles Cole, the 5.10 Rubber King, apparently keeps the different components of the rubbers formulae in different safes in different locations! This is a secrete more closely guarded than the formulae to Coke-a-Cola!
In use I can honestly say, with my hand on my heart, that the Onyx was better than Stealth C4. Having used the shoes on different rocks, in different locations and in different conditions (as well as indoors) I am totally satisfied that Onyx rubber provides more ‘stickiness’ than Stealth C4.
However, this statement needs to put into perspective, as for years Stealth C4 has been considered by many to be the best climbing rubber in the World.
In conclusion, if you are looking for an all round performance rock shoe with superb edging characterstic then you’ll find it hard to beat this shoe.
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