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planetFear - Rock Climbing, Adventure Racing, Mountain Biking

Defy

Review by Customer Review
Friday 6th October 2006

The first thing that struck me about these shoes was how comfy they were, right out of the box! The inner of the shoes is soft and smooth and they are a joy to wear - it’s not often you hear that said about rock shoes! I was wary at first but they remained the same shape, without becoming loose or baggy.

The narrow shape of the toes makes them very good on pockets. They have a neutral toe so are not the best on overhanging ground. This does mean they are excellent for smearing though. The soles are a very good edging stiffness and didn’t wear down after use. Evolv’s Trax XT5 rubber doesn’t have the same reputation of Five Ten’s ‘Stealth’ or ‘Onyx’. But, initially they matched performance and, as they were so comfortable I thought I had some new favourite shoes!

Unfortunately, they let me down heel-hooking, with the heel slipping off easily, even when only under minimal pressure. I did worry they were too big (I chose a size 5, which is my normal rock shoes size so I would advise maybe dropping a half size for performance) but a friend who had a tighter fitting pair reported the same.

This was a pity as otherwise, my Five Ten Anasazi’s would be on e-bay!

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